Day 9: Last day at Bullards State Park

Day 9:  Bullards Beach State Park, near Bandon, Oregon

Distance for the day: 65.1 km

Cumulative distance: 1,550.8 km

Top speed: 104 kph

Moving average:  63  kph

Temperature: 11.8 - 23.0

Heartbreaking loss for the Oil tonight, after being up 2-0 at the end of one. 

Once again, the local kids had us awake by 6:30. It is hard to be upset with them though because they are all so sweet and it really has been quite pleasant having them around, riding their bikes through the tent site and visiting with us. One little guy gave Nan and me each a hug when he was saying goodbye. I told him "hugs are good, as long as your dad is around!" Can't be too careful nowadays.

There really wasn't any point in staying in bed so we were up.  We had a little visit with the next door neighbours and they gave us a bunch of wood for a fire tonight, including splitting it and stacking it by our fire pit. It has been serving us well as we watched the hockey game and especially now as I write this since the temparture has dropped to 12. at 8:30 pm.

The lineup at Bandon Cafe
goes out the door, as per usual.

Into Bandon for lattes and breakfast. They make a mean breakfast sandwhich of ham, an egg, cheese and avocado on toasted whole wheat bread. Can't beat it and it is portioned a good size for people my age! While we are sitting there in the cafe finishing our coffees (and Nan contemplates another) I spot a gal come in and get in line that I had met in line yesterday. We had talked about riding as her husband had a history of it. Plus, she told me what a good wife she is by going out to get milk and responding to his request to bring him a coffee. We call out to each other and she says she brought her husband in today and since we are sitting at the window, I easily spot him seating  himself at a

Always busy.

picnic table outside with their Blue Healer. Since I practically know him already, I wave to him and he sees me and gives a friendly wave back. He practically knows me already, too! Nan clears our breakfast plates and I take my remaining coffee outside and ask if I can join him and we introduce ourselves. Jennifer and Randy. We are then joined by two friends of theirs, Sherri and Ara, who are their next door neighbours. They are all a wealth of knowledge about the routes we are considering and have helpful tips which in fact did lead to our game plan for the next three days. This fun group would have been great to get to know better. 

Getting the low-down on getting down low (in CA.)

After we bolted from Bandon Cafe, we stopped up at the grocery store to get some dinner for tonight. Since we had just finished breakfast, we underestimated what we would really need to have a decent meal and ended up a little light. That's ok since we are still working off the Mexican food from the first day.

On a lark, rather than head straight back to camp, we rode up to a nearby town called Coquille because of its enticing set of roads. The route follows the Coquille River, which actually exits very close to our campground and typically, roads that follow rivers are twisty and these are no exception. The road is curvy but not gnarly and not too busy, which is great for a day that many people are heading home after the long weekend. We pass by a weigh scale and weigh in after our first full week on the road and the picture is not pretty. Somehow, Nan avoided having her picture on the blog at this point. Don't worry Sweetie, your secret is not safe with me!

On the scale.

That must be because of my gear.

Back at the camp, while Nan busied herself I went for a stroll over to see the Bullards

Family Bone Yard, which is just off the edge of the campground. The Bullards were a prominent family in the area at the turn of the 19th century and were instrumental in lobbying for a bridge to cross the river here. I am a great fan of graveyards because they hold so much history and it seemed this one was in an odd place since there was nothing around but a campground. The grave stones ranged in age from about 90 years to to 150. There was about a dozen up there and visible; there may well have been a few more graves that were no longer marked, though I noted that at least two of the grave stones were not original, being made of freshly carved granite. Apparently, the Bullards' family home was approximately at the location of the entrance to the park so, in fact the graveyard is not really out in the middle of nowhere, at least, at the time it was initiated.

When that was done, we went for a walk out to the beach, then along the beach and back along the road, the same route we did yesterday and a loop of about 5 ot 6 km. Nan has long been a great fan of walking the beach and collecting shells and stones and this is a great beach for that. There is a myriad of coloured stones with every colour of the rainbow represented. Many of the stones have striations giving them the appearance of Jovian planets. Others are deep red, deep blue, translucent yellow and green, marbled, purple, just about anything you can imagine. On a bike, though, it is tough to collect such things.

After our walk, we have our meagre rations, build a nice fire and settle in to watch the hockey game. It actually streams pretty well - much better than on Saturday night. The turkeys stop by to check out the action.

While the Oilers were still leading.

Looking forward to heading out Tuesday and seeing some new territory. 

Day 8: Bullards Beach State Park, near Brandon, Oregon (Parental discretion advised.)

Day 8:  Bullards Beach State Park, near Bandon, Oregon

Distance for the day: 59.3 km

Cumulative distance: 1,485.7 km

Top speed: 102 kph

Moving average:  35  kph

Temperature: 5.8 - 19.0

We had a great day of being tourists. The turkeys had us awake at 6:30 am and i was praying that one of the neighbour dogs would rush out there and waylay those birds. I'm certain that they walked between our tent and the neighbour's tent and the neighbours have two dogs. All I heard was snoring. Some of it from the dogs. None of it from the turkeys. What I did hear from the turkeys, everybody in the campground heard. It's isn't really "gobble, gobble". That is a cheap imitation of how they really sound. It really sounds more like "GET THE F*CK OUT OF BED!!!" At 6:30. 

Make sure you look at this video of 34 seconds 

of Face Rock. It took about 15 minutes to upload.

Being up early, we got out of bed and were on the road by 7:45 am. YES, AM. We went to Bandon, which we have determined, is short for "Abandoned". However, their most redeeeming feature is a little coffee shop called Bandon Coffee House and we were making our second apperance on this trip. Likely the second of three.  Great coffee, great food, if simple and very popular, as there is always a line up, any time of day. At least, that we have been there. I'll endeavour to get a picture from inside for tomorrow's post.

Murres

After lattes and a breakfast sandwhich, we did the tourist thing, which consisted of riding around town, along the coast, looking at the houses and gardens and then we stopped at a couple of viewpoints which gave us access to specatular views of the beaches and waves. At Face Rock, referenced in the above video, we were riding along the main road and as we approached the entrance to Face Rock parking, we were waved in by a volunteer at the entrance KEEPING CARS OUT. She shouted at us something about "...more people ride motorcycles..." or something. Then I saw the parking lot, which was full, and I understood why and what she was shouting about. We had no idea what was going on at Face Rock but here we were. There were wildlife volunteers

"Crop circles in the sand being investigated by paranormal researchers, as they do every Sunday morning.

with spotting scopes trained on the rock formations just off shore and we looked at large numbers of murres, which are black and white birds. I don't know their occupation but the prime target this day was for puffins. One had been spotted before we arrived. None while there. But hundreds, if not thousands of murres, which in their own right, were interesting appeared in a huge gathering on the near by rock formations.        

Carrying on, we went further down the coast road looking at more houses and yards. We saw a bicycler who had been camping in our campground. Clearly, he was following us. We passed through a gully with warning signs about passing while water was in the gulley. We just thought that meant when there was a storm or a tsunami. There was water in the gully while we were there on this beautiful, sunny spring day. We didn't even have Water Wings. 

When we got back to the campground, we showered, for a change, then, with fresh clothes, went for a great walk to the beach with pinic provisions we had picked up while in town. This included a side stop at the local lighthouse, which, while decomissioned, made for a great stop. The building was falling apart but there were two volunteers, husband and wife, in there manning the gift shop. $50 hoodies and $25 T-shirts (US) produced by the state of Oregon. We didn't buy any.

After our walk to and along the beach, we returned to the campground and shelled out for the meanest bundle of fire wood for $7. And a dollar for a fire starter puck made of cedar shavings. The puck burned great but the wood was nasty and had it not been for our friendly neighbours sending over a piece of decent firewood in the hands of their 3 year old, we would never have had a fire. 

I'm going to let the pictures tell the rest of the story.

Navigating the waterway over the road.

Beach driftwood.

Our fire with Oregon State Park resources.

Our fire with the the neighbour's 3 year
old daughter Brie's resources.

Day 7: Bullards State Park, Oregon

Day 7:  Bullards Beach State Park, near Bandon, Oregon

Distance for the day:  11.7 km

Cumulative distance: 1,426.4 km

Top speed: 103 kph

Moving average:  41  kph

Temperature range:  Not really certain but the weather network says it is 14. In the sun, sitting here at our picnic table, it feels llike it is about 17 or 18.

Got up this morning about 8:00 am. I had laid in bed while Nan tried to get some more sleep; our partying neighbours were up till 3:00 am and were quite boistrous. 

Our first order of business was to pull the tent apart. It had rained further into the night

The new spot.

and even with my makeshift tent repairs, some water found its way into the tent. We walked over to our new tent site and there was a vehicle in the parking spot but the driver was sitting inside and it looked like she was getting ready to pull out. She must have arrived late last night because when we walked by last night, the site was unoccupied. We walked back to where we had originally camped and walked over the first load of paraphernalia: sleeping mats, motorcyle clothing and a bag with shoes. The next load we brought on the bike and then the last load, we walked over. 

We made a lot of effort to get the tent tight so that if it rains again, we will at least have a chance. Once the tent was set up, we jumped on the bike (which was about 11:00 am) and went to Bandon for breakfast and coffee. The little coffee shop was busy and got way busier shortly after we walked in and they seemed to be having trouble keeping the orders straight because they only made us one breakfast sandwhich. However, it was good and worth the wait for the second to come. We took our time, enjoyed the food and lattes and resolved to return on Sunday morning. 

After breakfast, we went to Ace hardware to try to find a piece to repair the tent pole as I had seen onlinle last night that they actually carried a part that might likely work. I didn't see one inside and so asked, and the employee told me he had seen the piece two days ago so he walked over to the spot to take a look and it was gone. He checked the inventory on the computer and learned that they were out. I may look for another solution.

THEN, we went to the grocery store to get dinner supplies: salad, packaged rice and a can of tuna salad for some protein. And cookies from the coffee shop. 

Once back at the campground, we saw Nan's "wild" turkeys. She kept sayling last night

that she had heard a turkey - I didn't, so I had my doubts - but there was a big male and with a female in tow. They look like the campground's mascots because there were quite comfortable with people taking their pictures.

We went for a nice walk to the beach, round trip about 5 km and it really is quite dramatic. Quite a few people there, even though it is early and pretty fresh, especially with the breeze off the ocean. 

On the way back to the tent site, Nan and I parted ways for a brief time and I talked to some other campers. We had noticed a beautiful bouquet of flowers in a couple of the camp sites and we wondered if it had been a romantic gesture or if in some way was for Memorial Day. Many of the campers here have patriotic displays in recognition of their troops. As one camper called out "hello" as I walked by, I took it as my opportunity to ask about the flowers. The fellow acknowledged that it had been his anniversary on the prior Thursday and he had had the flowers delivered to his wife's work, so she had brought them along. They were a very friendly couple and had lots of tips for what route we should take. He also said that Nan and I were welcome in the campsite anytime.

We are hunkering down for the hockey game, which is a half hour away. We have a nice, hot dinner planned and are hoping to have enough bandwidth to watch the game, otherwise we will be relegated to listening to it on the radio.

Day 6: Calamity

Day 6:  Bullards Beach State Park, near Bandon, Oregon

Distance for the day:  257.2 km

Cumulative distance: 1,414.7 km

Top speed: 104 kph

Moving average:  67  kph

Temperature range:  13.8 -23.0

We were on the road by 9:50 this morning. So much for the proposed "pre-departure walk on the beach" as had been discussed last night (after the Oilers victory). Even though we knew we didn't have a long way to ride today, we didn't want to hang around because the hotel was going to be full for Friday night and we didn't want to impede the workers.

Denise, who had been the bartender/sommelier/chef last night while we watched the Oilers asked us where we were going. I gave her the full picture: California, Arizona, New Mexico, Colorado and points in between and beyond. THEN she asked us how long we

have been together. 37+ years, I tell her (including dating, engagement etc). She was either in shock or awe, assuming that we would say that we were newly together and that because I was dragging Nan out on a trip this extensive, we had to be new (and that it wouldn't last)! Ha! Little does SHE know!

The morning started off cloudy but the further south we went, the more the clouds dissipated so that by the time lunch time rolled around, we were riding in clear, blue skies. Still not very warm but it wasn't raining.

We stopped for lunch in Florence at Wheel House Family Dining. We thought, "that

sounds like a safe bet". Even though they had been open for breakfast (we arrived at about a quarter to 12) it looked a little like they were just setting up for the day. They told us that breakfast ends at noon. The gal serving us I was pretty sure was a resident where my mother lives but she denied it.  Same with the other gals working there. In the corner of the dining area was a statue of a mermaid and she looked so cold it made me blush. I suggested to Nan she go over and throw her arm over the mermaids shoulder so that I could take a picture for the blog. I won't repeat here what she said I could do. Or where I could go.

We took a little side trip from North Bend, which was just before our day's destination. As it happened, there was a state park along the route - Hwy 540 - that I had stayed at last September on my solo trip. At that time, I had wanted to continue on the route past the campground because I had heard that there was a very nice beach park beyond, however, it was unclear as to what the road was

beyond. Turns out there is no road at all so as much as I wanted to ride that way, we didn't bother to go to the end. 

We arrived at our campground in good time, around 2:30 p.m. This was ideal as it would give us enough time to set up our tent then head into Bandon, a mere 5 km away, to pick up some provisions for dinner. As it turned out, dinner was not the priority.  Setting up the tent, one of the poles, which are all inter-connected, splintered. The tent is 7 years old, designed to be lightweight so the pole maybe had just lived its life, in my opinion. However, that opinion may not have been

shared by everybody on the trip. The poles are alumnium with a carbon fibre coating, so very high tech, but not high durability. This was going to be an emergency, in-the-field repair job because the tent wasn't even able to hold itself upright. We rode into town to the only hardware store, bought some 14 gauge wire and duct tape. Then we bought some groceries: a bagged salad, a small salad kit to augment the bagged salad and some almonds along with some fresh raspberries.

I wrapped the end of the pole with the wire, then coated the wire with neoprene adhesive to hold it in place, wrapped the wire with duct tape and secured 4 zip ties around the end of the pole to build up its strength. To no avail. It folded like a cheap, well, you know, tent. The low tech but more reasonable solution is more or less holding now: multiple wraps of duct tape. The fly isn't so taught any more, which is little worrisome because we are hunkered down in the tent and it is raining lightly but steadily out there but for the moment, we are dry.

Oh, that was last moment. Water is dripping inside occasionally. 

I am going to post this now, without pictures. If you don't see any pictures with today's blog post, then you know that the cell signal is not strong enough to upload a bunch of data. We are here at this campground until Tuesday.

Day 5: More Maintenance

Day 5: Lincoln City, Oregon  

Distance for the day:  4 km

Cumulative distance: whatever

Top speed: 2 kph

Moving average:  2  kph

Temperature range:  around 12 or 13 

Pretty laid back day. Did a walk on the beach after getting a latte and burrito at a near-by espresso bar. We met (accosted) a patron getting breakfast and Nan asked her if we could take her picture.

The bike looks pretty lonely this morning by all the murals in the parking lot of the Anchor. However, with the Memorial Day weekend this weekend the Anchor is full, along with any kind of accomodation but we did manage to find camping at a state park down the highway by taking Friday night in one spot then we have to move to another for the following four. Small incovenience, after looking at a few campgrounds that were fully booked. 

Apparently, not everybody
here is a Trump fan.

We are in the Anchor Inn restaurant for dinner and hockey tonight. The restaurant is open only on Thursdays and weekends. And everybody here (staff) all do a couple of jobs. The bartender did our food prep as well as served us wine. We initially ordered salads with chicken but she tells us that the lettuce is not up to snuff so we order pizza instead. The pizza - pulled pork - comes with cole slaw on top and our bartender tells us the cole slaw is not up to snuff. We are not stressed about it. I've befriended a young man who works here (Joseph) and he is the duty manager, cleans rooms, fixes stuff and he mentioned to me earlier today that he may end up cooking tonight (he dodged that bullet). AND, he also rides a KLR. We talk extensively about bikes.

We are the only patrons sitting in here, which we find a little surprising especiallly given how much busier the motel is tonight. It's o.k., we have the best seats to watch the game. We have to decide if we are going back to our room to watch the 3rd period so that the staff can go home.

You can see that the place isn't too big: 12 seats. But it's sweet.

Oilers up 2-1 after two periods.

Day 4: Maintenance Day

Day 4: Lincoln City, Oregon  

Distance for the day:  4.0 km

Cumulative distance: whatever

Top speed: 2 kph

Moving average:  2  kph

Temperature range:  around 12 or 13 but unknown for sure

We are staying at the Anchor Inn in Lincoln City. This is a budget motel but with wonderful, quirky charm. When we saw the weather yesterday, we looked for a place a suitable distance from Centralia (we have come to the conclusion that there really can't be an incorporated town called "Centralia", it is just an area in the midst of a network of roads around a spot on the interstate; we have said the name to several people and it means nothing to them). We were pretty excited to roll into the gravel parking lot. We were debating about whether we had gone further yesterday or the day before. Turns out it was 50 fewer km than the prior day but it felt like 50 or more kms than the prior day. We ended up in bed early and slept late this morning.

There is no real front desk per se here, once they have your money, they send a link to an app and the app will open the door to the room. We go straight to our assigned room and we can't get the app to work.  After fussing for a few minutes, we have to go to The Red Phone which is in a phone booth in the common area and speak to the manager. She looks like she has been through this drill before and is probably thinking "dumb foreigners" but she is good natured about it. She holds my phone to the key pad and turns it 90 degrees and the lock immediately releases. I ask for some rags to wipe off the panniers, which I like to do so I am not bringing in so much road dirt into the motel room and she takes us to the room next door, which is an ammenities room. Inside there is a free washer and dryer, laundry soap, dryer sheets, hundreds of dvds, ice, Kuerig coffee maker, plenty of coffee pods, extra towels, extra quilts, tooth brushes, tooth paste, razors, ear plugs and towels marked "dog towels" which are also suitable for panniers. 

The hotel is old, having built in the 1940s. There are two strips of "cabins" flanking the

common area, which is a large patio with several fire tables and assorted rhododendrons, cow lillies and other foliage. The cabin has two beds, a king and a queen and the queen is in a tiny little room at the back. There is a Keurig, microwave, fridge coffee cups, wine glasses, plates and cutlery.  Walls look paper thin of the old varished wood style common of the era. But it is quaint and the owners have done a good job making an old dog do new tricks.

The rain has largely stopped this morning, though there is the occasional smattering of rain drops before noon. When that lets up, we go for a walk to the beach, which isn't that

far but there are homes all along the top of the cliff and we have to walk a ways to get to a public beach access. The surf is somewhat dramatic with the heavy weather that has been around and we spot numerous seals lounging on a sand spit in the bay.

After our beach walk, we are walking by a local brew pub and decide to go in for a beer. Somehow, it is not what I expected but Nan says it is exactly as she expected. To me, a craft brewery is usually a little bit Bohemian, decorative, trendy or that sort of thing but this place is just a tavern that makes its own beer. Dark, pool tables, TVs with sports, dollar bills stapled to the ceiling and the

owner is walking around dressed like he has been in the brewery making beer. 

We perch ourselves at a high top table and Nan excuses herself for a few minutes. While she is away, a gal probably around our age, who has seen Nan, comes and sits beside me... uncomfortably close. I have my arms on the back of the bench and this gal sits and is pressed right up against me. Then her hand is on my thigh. And she is staring deeply into my eyes, telling me I am for her and she is for me for all time.  Nan is coming back to the table and sees there is a "situation" and I am thinking one of us, either this gal or me, is going to get punched out. Since my hand is behind the gal I signal to Nan that "we have a situation". Nan sits beside me. At first, it doesn't seem too serious and Nan is trying to talk to her (to find out what is going on) but it is clear that there is something wrong, so Nan again excuses herself and talks to the staff and somebody comes and asks our interloper for her attention, ultimately asking her to leave. My honour is saved.

We have a couple of pints then are on our way, resolving to come back for dinner because the menu looks pretty good for a tavern. When we do return a couple of hours later, the staff tell us that our "friend" returned after we left and they ended up having to call the police to escort her away. It was more sad than anything. I got the sense that she had possibly confused me for her husband but she was certainly confused.

Drying boots.

 Emergency rations provided by
the Anchor Inn: a S'mores kit,
which we ate after dinner.

Day 3: Misery

Day 3: Lincoln City, Oregon  

Distance for the day:  370.8 km

Cumulative distance: 1,157.5 km

Top speed: 111 kph

Moving average:  72  kph

Temperature range:  10.2 -13.0

It was a challenging day. It was raining hard when we got up and didn't let up until we 

Gearing up for departure.

were a half hour out of Lincoln City, and that was for at most, five minutes. Despite wearing rain suits over our motorcycle clothes, including rain covers over my riding gloves, we were both wet. Our feet, our gloves, our chests and our posteriors. It seems this rain gear just wasn't cut out for this kind of rain. Our leather boots are soaked through; I guess that is no surprise. It was ironic that a riding friend of mine this morning posted a message about buying boot covers this past week. In anticipation of the bad riding conditions, we foregoed yet another night of camping and judging by the looks of it, might be for several more days. With this weekend being Memorial Day, we will still likely to be o.k. finding accomodations in this weather.

We left the motel beside Interstate 5 felling satisfied that we had lucked on a budget motel that was amazingly clean and with a super comfortable bed. On the road about 10:20, we had the usual gremlins to dispense within about 20 minutes. Mainly, getting the GPS positioned better so that I could see the dash, understanting what it was trying to tell me and getting our electric vests connected to that we could hopefully stay warm. 

Our first stop was in Raymond, almost at the coast. With the GPS settings set to avoid the interstate highways, especially on a day like to day when we would have been completely sprayed down with water from other vehicles, let alone rain, Nonetheless, we were having trouble making sense of the GPS instructions because we were so close to the interestate that, in a fit of defeat, I said I was just going to jump on the interstate to get us to our turnoff. It couldn't be more than a few km away anyway, so how bad could it get?Fortunately, we didn't have to test it because we found the correct road which bypassed the interestate.

As it turned out, we were actually retracing some steps from the previous day, and this allowed Nan to get this cool shot! a large forest of trees - aspens or poplars - planted for miles in tidy, even rows. It was not clear to us if they had been planted for later
harvesting or by design to satisfy some strange compulsion.

Raymond, an hour out from our prior night's stay, was a welcome relief. We were still dry  at this point but it was clear we were in for a slog.  We were hungry, too, as all we had eaten the day before was the enchilada soup and the salad for lunch, then a bag of peanuts and a can of wine each for dinner. Still a long way to go to lose the sins of our first day! Hope to get that done before the end of the trip! So we each had an omlette for lunch: minimal carbs and loads of protein! (And a cookie for the road. Can't be too pure!)

Meat omlette at the Hungry Heifer

Astoria-Megler Bridge. At the other end,
(5km away) the bridge rises to a huge are with enough room for cargo ships to cross.

It was pretty much just a day of endless riding in the rain. We stopped for gas with about an hour to go and after that, it just couldn't be done soon enough. All we saw was rain and fog. Very little of the coast line, sadly, especially because riding down the coast was one of Nan's requests. Probably the best thing we saw was the Astoria-Megler Bridge where famed Hwy 101 crosses from Washington to Oregon where the Columbia River finds its way into the Pacific Ocean.

Arriving at our destination in Lincoln City, we were thriled to find out accomodation super cute and very quaint. Built in the 1940s, it was set up for families with fire pits, (wood, electric and gas), croquet, even a complimentary s'mores kit in the room. Also very thankful that we had the foresight to book two nights, which will give our gear a chance to dry out.